India-ALSHARQIYA   August 22 : A few weeks ago, the sixteenth edition of India Fashion Week 2023 concluded. Over the course of a week, skillfully embroidered works of sixteen designers such as Rahul Mishra, Shantanu Nikhil, Sunit Varma, Tarun Tahiliani, Varun Bahl and others were shown. .

As usual, one of the features that distinguished most of the shows was the splendor of traditional embroidery, especially the zari embroidery, in which gold threads are used, along with crystals, stones and sequins. The reason is that most of the shows were primarily aimed at bridal and wedding attire, with an emphasis on Indian cultural heritage as well as contemporary aesthetics. It is also worth noting that those who love Indian cinema have found something to please them. A number of stars and celebrities have appeared as models and models.

The Delhi-based Falguni Shane Peacock show was among the shows that garnered a lot of attention for its innovative and contemporary designs. The duo, a married couple, presented a richly embroidered collection that employed traditional shapes. For example, different interpretations of the traditional "Lehanga Koli" appeared in the collection. Dresses and skirts also sparkled with elements such as long embroidered scarves and feathers.

The show, called “The Daydreaming of the Renaissance,” began with a swarm of male models walking down the runway dressed as “sherwanis,” printed with intricately embroidered plant leaf designs. But what was remarkable about it was the design of the turban embellished with jewels. This is not the first time that his fashion designer is inspired by the Renaissance, which extended during the sixteenth century, but the translation this time was somewhat different by mixing Indian technical skill with European architecture. This is what the duo explained by saying: “This year we found ourselves drawn towards the Renaissance, eager to study and understand its remnants, which are artistic treasures. To achieve our vision, we chose shades of strawberry yoghurt, as well as light gray, which transcends the boundaries of time, in addition to vibrant shades such as pink, spring yellow, and grayish-purple, which preserved our distinctive contemporary touch.

As for Gaurav Gupta, he presented a show that combined drama and simplicity. His presentation was titled "Paris, France - The Golden Womb", referring to the "golden womb" from which the universe arose. The collection featured Gupta's signature slim fit, tuxedo suits, hoodies and loose cropped women's jackets. The group also included aspects of Hindu philosophy, which explains interpretations of the five elements of nature, which are “earth, water, fire, air, and space.” For this version of the collection, the designer expanded the range of the golden womb story to include women's "lehenga" pieces for cocktail and reception parties, in addition to dresses and saris, as well as modern hybrid shapes in which the common denominator was comfort and elegance.

Designer Varun Bahl, on the other hand, returned to nature to extract shapes and ideas from the world of flora and fauna. To achieve his goal, he used beads and three-dimensional ornaments. The collection also featured designs

He used traditional artistic techniques, and at the same time an experimental character, appeared in non-traditional bubble dresses. Plant designs also included elements such as embroidery with patchwork, dangling tassels, sequins, and "nakshi", a type of delicate embroidery, which helped paint a rich natural image, drawing its spirit from the vibrant colors of nature.

Designer Ritu Kumar, who was absent from Indian Fashion Week for about a decade, returned with a collection that celebrated Indian traditions and met the requirements of the contemporary consumer, as it included classic pieces rich in embroidery such as the "Anarkali Kurta" dress, to which pockets were added, and pieces of sari with drawings. Versatile shapes and whimsical designs appeared in ultra-slim pieces and cropped jackets. In contrast to the rest of the designers, she chose her colors in earthy tones such as brown, beige and white.

However, the most important feature of her show remains, her use of supermodel Aditi Rao Haidari, who was radiating magic in an ivory lehenga with pockets and a jacket decorated with Kashmiri embroidery.

On the other hand, designer Kunal Rawal is known for his deconstructive style and the famous “bandgala” pieces. This also appeared in his men's collection during the Indian week of 2023. It bore the name "Dub Kao" (umbrella), in which the designer outlined what a man should wear at weddings. Hand embroidery, bold mirror work, and classic hues are all here to give it elegance, sophistication, simplicity, and classicism. Its colors range from white and blue to olive green, dark red, black, brown and gray.

Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna also shared in the week what looks like a poem dedicated to its magic for evening and evening. Entitled "Equinox" (Equinox), the collection included light jackets decorated with rhinestones, sequins, shirts in the form of a grid, and silk pants in colors that focused heavily on black. Actor Ishan Khater was the highlight of the show for the duo, as he finished it off with a generously embroidered light jacket and black straight pants.

Another strong name in the world of Indian womenswear and menswear is Tarun Tahiliani, who has stuck to his traditional Indian roots and presented a collection he called “For Eternity”, which focused on craftsmanship and artistry. Men walked the catwalk wearing the classic "Sherwani" with the "churidar" and "salwar", along with coats with embroidered hats and the long "Sherwani". The ivory color was evident in the menswear on display.

Sunit Varma, another popular name in the Indian fashion world. He launched his first collection in 1987 after returning from Europe, and since then he has been moving from success to success. He never stops developing his style. In his 2023 collection, his lines were inspired by the fragrant mogra flower in designs that can be said to have been an extension of the Fall 2023 collection that he presented at Paris Fashion Week less than two months ago, adding warm Indian spices to suit the local taste.